The
Outer Hebrides stretch in a chain 130 miles long, and act as
a break against Atlantic storms heading for the Inner Hebrides
and the Western Highlands. The rugged landscape of moorlands,
mountains, deep sea lochs, splashing rivers and huge skies is
as dramatic as any on the mainland. Against this background
lies a wealth of prehistoric standing stones, graves and brochs.
Arnol
Traditional
tigh dubh, or black house on Lewis with 6ft thick walls
and thatched roof tied down with rope and weighted with stones,
now houses folk museum. Crofters' furniture includes straw-filled
box beds.
Bairanald
Waymarked
paths lead through Hebridean marsh, machair and along North
Uist shoreline, offering chance to see birds such as corncrakes,
red-necked phalaropes, oystercatchers and mute swans that visit
and nest here.
Barra
Castle,
dating from 1120 and restored in 1930s, home to the piratic
MacNeils of Barra. A thou-sand species of wild flower have been
identified on island.
Benbecula
Reuval
Hill, 408ft high, gives views of whole of Benbecula, North and
South Uist and neigh-bouring islands. On southern slope of hill
is cave where Bonnie Prince Charlie waited for Flora MacDonald
to bring suitable clothing for him to travel disguised as her
maid to Skye. Good beaches at Culls though sea is cold.
Callanish
Standing
stones erected on Lewis about 4000 years ago. A 270ft avenue
of 19 stones leads off from circle of 13 stones, with other
avenues heading east, west and south. Inside the circle is a
small chambered tomb. Reasons for its construction not known.
Cille
Bharra
Ruined
Church of St Barr and restored Chapel of St Mary once formed
part of Barra's medieval monastery. Carved stone in graveyard
has Celtic cross on one side and Norse runes on other.
Dun
Carloway Broch
Iron
Age stone fort, built on Lewis 1700 years ago, still has 30ft
high walls standing. Courtyard, 25ft across, is surrounded by
double walls, between which are chambers, galleries and stairs.
Eriskay
Island
of 'love lilt' and setting of novel Whisky Galore, which
was based on 1941 event when SS Politician foundered
off coast with 243, 000 bottles of whisky. Pink sea convolvulus
flowers supposed to have been planted by Bonnie Prince Charlie
when he landed on island on way to Scotland.
Garynahine
Bronze
Age stone circle on Lewis comprising stone slab surrounded by
ring of boulders, in turn surrounded by ring of upright stone
slabs; tallest is 9ft.
Hushinish
From
pier opposite Scarp, walk leads north-east over Harris hills
to beach. Inland lies Loch na Cleavag. Hushinish road passes
near 19th-century Amhuinnsuidhe Castle and salmon leap at Loch
Beag.
North
Uist
Ancient
forts, ruins and standing stones are everywhere on island. Stone
group 3 miles north-west of Lochmaddy is called Na Fir Breighe,
'The False Men', said to be either wife deserters turned to
stone or gravestones of spies buried alive.
Rodel
St
Clement's Church, built on Harris 1500 and restored in 18th
and 19th centuries, finest example of church architecture in
Hebrides. Contains monuments to members of Macleod family.
Seilebost
Harris
sand dunes sheltering hamlet are populated by rabbits and sea
birds. Carpets of bright flowers emerge in early summer.
Shawbost
Shawbost
Museum, housed in disused Lewis church, illustrates old methods
of fishing, croft farming and weaving. Restored 19th-century
water mill.
South
Uist
Nature
reserve at Loch Druidibeg is breeding ground of greylag goose.
Statue of Madonna and Child, 3Oft high, carved by Hew Lorimer
in 1957. Birthplace of Flora Macdonald now just a tumble of
stones near Mingary.
Stornoway
Lews
Castle, built 1844, now a technical college surrounded by largest
wooded park in Hebrides. Ruin of 14th-century Ui Chapel at Point
peninsula. Gaelic culture celebrated at An Lanntair Gallery.
Tarbert
Harris
countryside offers opportunities for walking. Otters, red deer,
golden eagles and swans in area. Scenic route runs eastwards
from village to Kyles Scalpay. Cairns on road to Luskentyre
mark prehistoric funeral routes.
Trinity
Temple
Ruins
of medieval college and monastery on North Uist founded in early
13th century. Theologian Duns Scotus studied there. Beside it
is Teampull Clan A'Phiocair, chapel of the MacVicars.
If you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me:
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