Castles
and great houses, old fishing ports and lovely villages, sandy
beaches and a string of golf courses punctuate the coastline
bordering Lothian and Borders. This fertile corner of Scotland
is rich in agricultural land, with cultivated acres running
up the slopes of the gentle, green Lammermuir Hills where sheep
graze and skylarks soar.
Abbey
St Bathans
Village
in secluded valley of Whiteadder Water, with remains of 12th-century
Cistercian priory built into parish church. Craft centre and
gallery. Riverside and woodland walks; salmon fishing, trout
farm and deer. Traces of hill-forts, huts and a Pictish broch.
Aberlady
Neatly
restored 17th to 19th-century rubblestone houses line main street.
Parish church has 15th-century square tower and pyramidal spire:
on pavement outside is a 'loupin-on-stane' mounting stone used
by farmers' wives to get on horses. Main road leads to Aberlady
Bay, expanse of salt marsh, dunes and creeks.
Ayton
Castle
This
flamboyant house of red sandstone, in Scottish Baronial style,
was built 1846 for governor of Bank of Scotland by James Gillespie
Graham. In churchyard are ruins of a pre-Reformation kirk.
Barns
Ness
Wildlife
preserve, geology trail and limekilns along 21/2 miles of coastline
where limestone is quarried for local cement works.
Berwick-upon-Tweed
England's
northernmost town, with elegant Georgian streets and square
dominated by spire of 18th-century town hail. Two mile walk
leads round top of Elizabethan walls encircling town. Georgian
barracks contain exhibition of British infantry's history. Three
bridges span River Tweed: 15-arch Jacobean stone bridge, Robert
Stephenson's 1847 railway bridge and A1 road bridge of 1928.
Coldingham
Remains
of priory restored 11)98 on site of earlier building. Splendid
arch rises among scattered gravestones and masonry. Priory choir
embodied in parish church.
Cove
Aptly
named village with Cornish flavour. Steep track carved out of
rock leads down cliffs to harbour where fishing boats shelter.
Dirleton
Cottages
and houses from 17th, 18th and 19th centuries and 12th-century
church line three sides of wide green. On fourth side are ruins
of 13th-century castle built on outcrop of rock with drum towers,
kitchen, chapel and ruins of Great Hall. Gardens with 17th-century
bowling green.
Drem
The
Chesters Iron Age fort with multiple ramparts and ditches. Situated
unusually in low-lying land beneath a steep scarp.
Dunbar
Red-sandstone
tower and scattered ruins of 11th-century castle overlook fishing
harbour with cobbled quays, restored ware-houses and coastguard
station. Mary, Queen of Scots was brought to the castle in 1567
by Earl Bothwell. Lauderdale House, part-extended by Robert
Adam, at end of High Street, while at No 126 is a museum dedicated
to the conservationist John Muir, who was born there in 1838.
Duns
Narrow
streets straggle below Dons Law, 700ft. Statue to philosopher
John Dons Scotus. born here about 1265. Jim Clark Memorial Room
contains trophies of racing driver born at Dons who was twice
world champion and died in 1968 racing accident.
Earn's
Heugh
Iron
Age hill-forts on cliff near St Abb's Head. Banks, ditches and
foundations of circular huts.
East
Fortune
Museum
of Flight on airfield houses Vulcan bomber, 1930 Dc Havilland
Puss Moth and Piper Comanche flown by Sheila Scott, holder of
94 world records in 1970s. Photographs of airship t{34
which made first double crossing of Atlantic from here in 1919.
Edin's
Hall
Substantial
remains of Iron Age tower or broch built within ram-parts of
earlier fort on shoulder of Cockburn Law.
Eyemouth
Cobbled
streets, alleys and busy fishing harbour. Georgian Gunsgreen
House has secret passages once used by smugglers. Museum relates
history of East Coast fishing; tapestry records 23 boats and
129 men lost in 1881 gale.
Garvald
Tucked
away in valley beside Papana Water. On church wall are jougs,
iron collars used on miscreants. Above village is Nunraw, 16th-century
tower house built into 19th-century mansion.
Gifford
Laid
out by the 2nd Marquis of Tweeddale early in 18th century: 1708
church in wide main street. Avenue of limes to Yester House,
built 1745 by Robert Adam.
Gullane
Resort
with three golf links, including Muirfield course. Exhibition
shows game's development since 15th century.
Haddington
Gracious town of wide streets, dating
from 11OOs. Town House of 1748; 15th-century church. I tome
of reformer John Knox. Carlyle's House, named after Thomas Carlyle,
has fine facade. Restored rooms of Jane Welsh, who became his
wife, in house nearby.
Hailes
Castle
13th-century
ruins above River Tyne include tower, dungeons and chapel.
Innerwick
Village
with 15OOs farm buildings, Georgian manse, 1700s Gothic church.
Ruins of castle destroyed during English invasion 1547.
John
Muir Country Park
Expanse
of coastal countryside, including 8 miles of sand and salt marsh,
named after Dunbar-born conservationist who was father of U.S.
National Parks movement.
John
Wood Collection
Remarkable
photographs from Victorian and Edwardian days on display in
garage at Coldingham. Taken by John Wood, whose glass-plate
negatives were discovered in 1983, 69 years after his death,
restored and printed.
Lammermuir
Hills
Softly
contoured heather and gorse-clad hills run east to west across
Lothian. Road climbs through beech woods, past Iron Age hill-fort
of White Castle, into rounded summits and deep valleys. Whiteadder
reservoir lies in bowl of wooded slopes.
Lennoxlove
Mansion
set in woodland looking towards the Lammermuir Hills. Named
after Frances Stewart, 17th-century Duchess of Lennox, model
for Britannia on coinage. Good rooms, one lined with 17th-century
damask. Dutch, Italian and English paintings, porcelain and
furniture. Duchess's work-box, inlaid with mother-of-pearl,
was gift from Charles II. Mansion is now family home of Dukes
of Hamilton. Anteroom has death mask of Mary, Queen of Scots.
Longniddry
Mining
village for 500 years until 1920s. Golf links and rocky shore.
Gosford House, seat of Earl of Wemyss.
Manderston
House
Edwardian
country house built 1901. Marble staircase with silver handrail,
ballroom hung with embossed velvet and curtains embroidered
in gold and silver. Louis XVI-style furniture. Stables have
arched roof, teak stalls and marble floor. Dairy has fountain
designed by Italian and French craftsmen to resemble Roman cloister.
Garden is entered through gilded gateway that blazes in setting
sun. Rare rhododendrons and azaleas.
North
Berwick
Narrow
streets lead down to tiny harbour flanked by fine beaches, with
ruined 12th-century Auld Kirk by harbour wall, Safe anchorage
for yachts and fishing boats, bathing often dangerous. Golf
courses surround village below 613ft volcanic pyramid of North
Berwick Law, crowned by watchtower from the Napoleonic Wars
and arch of whale jawbones. Tough climb to top with impressive
views. Boat trips to islands of Fidra and 350ft Bass Rock.
Oldhamstocks
Village
of neat cottages on eastern edge of the Lammermuir Hills, overlooking
valley of Dunglass Burn. Village green with mercat cross and
18th-century water pump. Parish church.
Pease
Bay
Sandy
cove with red cliffs at foot of steep Pease Dean: to north-west,
Dunglass Burn tumbles through a gorge spanned by three bridges.
One is 130ft high, built 1786.
Preston
Mill
Restored
1600s water-driven mill with wheel 13ft across. Nearby 16th-century
Phantassie Doocot (dovecote) has circular walls with sloping,
horseshoe-shaped roof.
St
Abb's Head
Spectacular
cliff scenery; birds resting on precipitous lava cliffs.
If
you would like to visit this area as part of a highly personalized
small group tour of my native Scotland please e-mail me:
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